The Christmas Tree Lights Up for the First Time Since the Outbreak of the Conflict
Throughout a two-year period amid the Gaza war, every festive public event marking the holiday season were cancelled within the city of Bethlehem in the occupied West Bank. This city is believed to be where Christians believe Jesus was born.
But, after a recent truce, the holy city decided that this year celebrations would make a comeback, as symbolised by the illumination of its customary, giant Christmas tree in front of the historic Nativity Church.
"It's been a bad two years of silence; no Christmas, no employment, no work," states Bethlehem Mayor Maher Canawati. "Our community survives from tourism and the tourist trade was down to zero."
The mayor accepts that the decision of resuming celebrations was not without controversy, given the ongoing hardship in Gaza – including for those in its tiny Christian community, who often have family ties in Bethlehem.
"Certain voices argue it is unsuitable while others contend it's appropriate," the mayor notes. "But deep inside my heart, I felt this constituted the right thing to take because the Christmas season should never be stopped or cancelled. This is a beacon of hope for us."
A Spark of Celebration Returns
Locals – both Christians and Muslims – pose for selfies in front of the tree decorated with gold and red ornaments at Manger Square. They are accompanied by a small number of foreign tourists.
Brightly coloured lights now adorn the streets and there are signs advertising holiday markets and festive events for children.
"We're very happy to have the tree, first thing, and to welcome visitors to Bethlehem and to have the chance to observe the holiday in its true spirit," says Bethlehem designer Nadya Hazboun.
"This is where it all started, so this is where we can send a message globally of what really Christmas should be about. And this year, if Christmas is peaceful, I sincerely hope it will bring a nice message for the entire world."
Economic Prospects and Challenges
The neighbouring towns including Beit Jala and Beit Sahour are also planning to illuminate holiday trees in the coming days. Local hotels – which have stood largely empty for two years – are seeing a rise in reservations from Arab citizens of Israel along with certain international tourists.
One tourist from Russia, Angelica, is on her second pilgrimage to this region. "I think every person should visit at least once in their life," she states.
"I wish a lot of people will return soon because it's sad with few tourists. The sole aspect that is positive is there are no lengthy queues – you can come and see more things. On my prior visit you had to wait in line for a few hours at least."
Currently, the gift shops dotted around the city have little business, and outside the cream-coloured walls of the Nativity Church, which date back to the 4th century, guides are mostly unoccupied. Before the Gaza war, it was typically packed with visitors.
"This is a tourist city; without tourism there is no livelihood," expresses one guide Hamza. "We aspire to have people coming back as in the past: from European nations, the Middle East, America, Latin American and all over. We begin with lighting the tree, and then we will wait."
The Lingering Economic Toll
In the past two years, unemployment has skyrocketed in Bethlehem. Following the lethal attacks led by Hamas on southern Israel during October 2023 that sparked the conflict, tens of thousands of Palestinian workers from the West Bank have been prevented from entering Israel and its settlements to work.
Meanwhile, public servants have received just a portion of their salaries by the Palestinian Authority (PA) – that administers parts of the West Bank. The Authority depends on tax income collected by Israel, which it is currently holding – to the tune of 1.76 billion dollars, according to the UN's trade and development agency.
Israel says it is holding the funds because the Authority provides financial payments to Palestinian prisoners that incentivise violence against Israelis. The PA – facing global pressure to make reforms – says it has recently changed its social welfare system.
A Modest Christmas Season
The bleak economic outlook implies that for many Christian Palestinians, despite the fact that there are now public events as well as religious ceremonies, it will constitute an austere Christmas.
At the edge of Manger Square, some patrons wait to purchase sizzling balls of falafel from several shops.
"We're preparing for the holiday following one of our hardest periods as a Palestinian people and as a Christian community," says Alaa Salameh, who runs Afteem, a long-established family restaurant that has witnessed its income plummet. He notes lately numerous families could not even afford falafel – an inexpensive, traditional snack.
"The faithful will attempt to mark the occasion but according to their situation," Mr Salameh anticipates. "Someone who wants to bring their children to a festive event or a show or similar, he doesn't have the funds to spend on these celebrations."
Hopes for Peace and Prosperity
Within the grotto beneath the Nativity Church, a resident accompanies a tour group from India, bending down near a silver star that indicates the spot where it is said that Jesus was born and lighting a candle close by.
Amid ongoing high tensions throughout the area, people in Bethlehem state they are hoping for peace – and wishing for tourists to come back to the location where it is believed Christmas began.